BAKEWELL TO BEELEY
A TO Z – DERBYSHIRE AND THE PEAK DISTRICT – CHAPTER 4
BAKEWELL (on the A6 between Matlock and Buxton – SK686218)
The picturesque old market town of Bakewell is in an excellent location on the banks of the River Wye, in the heart of the Peak District. At the weekend and during the summer, it throngs with visitors who come to browse around its many shops, enjoy refreshments at one of the numerous restaurants, pubs, and cafés in the town. Others enjoy strolling around this historic little town, with its fine old buildings and lovely river walks.
The five-arched bridge across the River Wye is one of the best-known landmarks in the Peak. It dates to 1200 and is among the oldest in the country, now designated as an Ancient Monument. All Saints’ Church has been used for worship since Anglo-Saxon times. It contains the most extensive and varied group of medieval monuments in the United Kingdom. In 1811, Jane Austen, author of Pride and Prejudice, is said to have stayed at the Rutland Arms and incorporated it into her writing. The hotel has even named a suite after her to commemorate the visit.
BAKEWELL – PUDDING SHOP
It was at the Rutland Arms, in about 1860, where the hotel cook misunderstood her instructions and produced the world-famous Bakewell Pudding. Instead of stirring the egg mixture into the pastry, she spread it on top of the jam, which, to this day, has proved to be a stroke of genius in creating name awareness for the town. The Bakewell Pudding Shop is an interesting place to visit, with information panels and exhibits to view as well as the chance to sample a delicious Bakewell Pudding, not ‘tart’.
BAKEWELL – OLD HOUSE MUSEUM
The museum is well worth seeking out, as it hides behind the church. Originally a Parsonage, it was later converted into six cottages by Sir Richard Arkwright. The adjacent barn accommodated another four cottages to house his workers at Lumford Mill. It is now one of the best-preserved 15th-century houses in the country, but only 60 years ago, the local council nearly demolished it, having served a ‘Demolition Order’. There was an outcry locally, and the house was saved and restored to its former glory by the Bakewell Historical Society. It is now a fascinating folk museum.
BAMFORD (on the A6013 between A6187 Hope Valley Road and the A57 Glossop to Sheffield Road – SK208836)
The superbly situated village of Bamford stands at the heart of the Dark Peak, eleven miles west of Sheffield and twenty-five miles east of Manchester. It is surrounded by impressive moorland scenery, with the gritstone edges of Bamford and Derwent on the northern side, and to the west, Win Hill. It is the sole surviving village in Derbyshire’s ‘Lake District.’ The villages of Ashopton and Derwent were submerged when the Ladybower Reservoir was constructed.
Bamford is a relatively modern place compared with many other Peak District villages, with most of its buildings dating from the early Victorian period to the present day. A few years ago, the village’s last surviving pub, The Angler’s Rest, was rescued by the local people and became the first community pub in Derbyshire. The cash to purchase was quickly raised from over 300 people. However, the seller had accepted a rival bid from a developer, which prompted the launch of a campaign to garner widespread support for the project. The national media soon began to take a positive interest, and the outcome came in October 2013, when the owner relented and sold the pub to the local community. The pub has been officially listed as a community hub and now includes a café and post office.
BARLBOROUGH (off junction 30 on the M1 motorway eastbound – SK473768)
The village contains some distinguished-looking houses, the finest of which is Barlborough Hall, built in 1583 for Sir Francis Rodes. It stands in parkland about one mile north of the village and is now a school. Sir Francis Rodes was one of the judges at the trial of Mary, Queen of Scots. The Rodes family also built Barlborough Primary School, which opened in 1870. The village cross is thought to be Norman, but the column is of a much later date. The plaque at the foot of the cross contains the words ‘This plaque was erected to commemorate the successful campaign to keep Barlborough in Derbyshire (1969 to 1971).’
BARROW HILL ROUNDHOUSE (1 mile north of Staveley, off the A619 east of Chesterfield– SK415753)
Built in 1870, it is the last surviving railway roundhouse in the United Kingdom with an operational turntable. Mervyn Allcock read about the pending closure and probable demolition of the building in 1989. For many years, he had cycled from his home to the Roundhouse on train spotting expeditions and decided to do something about it. Together with a band of like-minded individuals, he formed the Barrow Hill Engine Shed Action Group. With just 48 hours to go, the group’s actions saved the Roundhouse, which later obtained a Grade II listing.
Following a great deal of hard work, it is now a unique railway museum and events venue. One of several popular events is the annual Rail Ale Festival. There is a spacious café and plenty to do for all the family. Adjacent to the Roundhouse is the home of the Deltic Preservation Society’s maintenance depot and museum.
BASLOW (on the A623 Chesterfield Road, northwest of Chatsworth Park – SK253724)
A busy little village, delightfully situated in the Derwent Valley, at the heart of the Peak District, where the limestone country of the `White Peak’ meets the millstone grit of the `Dark Peak’. Chatsworth House is only a short walk away to the south, with Baslow Edge rising to the north, from where the short, steep climb rewards the walker with fantastic views.
St Anne’s is both a beautiful and unusual church – one clock tower features Roman numerals and is dated 1759, while the other bears the inscription ‘Victoria 1897’ to mark Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Inside the church, by the door, in a glass case, is a dog whip, which in the 17th and 18th centuries was used by the official ‘dog whipper’ to keep stray dogs in order during services. The whip has a thong that is three feet long, bound around the handle with leather, and it remains in excellent condition. Some historians also claim that it was used to maintain order among worshippers and to wake up those who had fallen asleep during the service.
Baslow Hall, built in 1907 for Rev. Jeremiah Stockdale, later became the home of electrical pioneer Sebastian de Ferranti. He was a ‘do it yourself man’ with a passion for electricity, who experimented with central heating and other electrical appliances in addition to fitting double glazing. Sadly, his efforts at battery poultry farming had disastrous consequences for the chickens, which resulted in electrocution.
Nowadays, the Devonshire Bridge, built shortly after the First World War, carries most of the traffic across the river. But it is the Old Bridge, close to the church built in 1603, which attracts the most interest from visitors with its impressive stone arches. It is the only ancient bridge across the Derwent never to have been destroyed by floods. It played a significant role in the history of Baslow, providing access to an important route over the moors to Chesterfield and the North Sea ports.
The present bridge replaced a wooden one that all able-bodied men in the village were required to watch on a rota basis, to ensure the weight restrictions were not broken. Anyone caught breaking the rules was fined. The tiny watchman’s hut remains, no doubt reduced in size by the heightening of the road. At one time, it offered a shelter of sorts to Mary Brady, a local beggar, who often slept rough inside.
BEELEY (on the B6012, east of Chatsworth House, off A6 Matlock to Bakewell Road – SK268675)
Anyone compiling a list of the most picturesque villages in Derbyshire would have to include Beeley. It is a pretty, unspoilt village sheltered by Beeley Moor with fantastic views in all directions. The delightful Beeley Brook further enhances the village scene as it chatters its way cheerfully alongside the road over several small waterfalls, past the Devonshire Arms, to a meeting with the River Derwent. Tastefully extended, The Devonshire Arms, with its oak beams and real fires, fits in superbly with this gem of a village. It boasts some celebrated patrons, including the writer Charles Dickens and King Edward VII, both of whom stayed at the inn. What makes the village so beautiful is that almost all the farm and domestic buildings are built from the same honey-coloured sandstone, quarried locally, near Fallinge Edge.
The ancient church of St Anne is one of the oldest in Derbyshire. Its considerably mutilated round-headed doorway dates back to the middle of the 12th Century. In the churchyard, the main attraction, at least as far as age is concerned, is a gnarled old yew, once a massive tree. It is said to be older than the church.
