A TO Z – DERBYSHIRE AND THE PEAK DISTRICT – CHAPTER 13

DOVEDALE (off the A515 north of Ashbourne, between Thorpe and Ilam)

The River Dove rises on high ground at Axe Edge, near Buxton. Its clear waters meander southwards for 45 miles to eventually join the River Trent. For much of its course, the river runs through stunningly attractive countryside, with one bank in Derbyshire and the other in Staffordshire. It is a walker’s paradise, offering both easy walks for the more leisurely walker and strenuous hikes for the more experienced practitioner.

Dovedale, with its steep-sided limestone sides and tree-covered slopes, is the stretch of the valley that runs from the tiny hamlet of Milldale down to the large car park close to the road linking Ilam and Thorpe. In some places, the water has eroded the limestone into spectacular rock formations, like the Lion’s Head and the natural archway in front of Reynard’s Cave. For the more energetic who climb Thorpe Cloud or Bunster, there are fine views across the valley.

The construction of the Midland Railway in 1863 reduced the journey time from the Peak to London to just three hours. Many were the thousands who got off the train at Alsop-en-le-Dale Station and walked the length of Dovedale before catching a train home at Thorpe Station. The railway is no more, but cars and other forms of transport still bring thousands of visitors to what is one of England’s most famous beauty spots.

DOVE HOLES (3 miles north of Buxton, on the A6 Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith Road – SK075782)

There is evidence of human occupation at Dove Holes during the late Stone Age, particularly at what is locally known as the Bull Ring, where a henge is alongside an adjoining tumulus. It was the Industrial Revolution that led to the expansion of the village through the opening of limestone quarries in the area, facilitated by the construction of a network of tramways and canals to provide transportation.

DOVERIDGE (off the A50 on the western side of Uttoxeter – SK117339)

Doveridge is a large village, but it is easy to miss as it hides out of sight behind the new A50. The old road used to run right through the village, bringing inevitable noise and congestion. It is an ancient village and must have been of some importance when the Domesday Book was compiled, as it had, at the time, a church, a mill, and forty householders. The old mill has been demolished, but a church remains on the original site, which was once part of the now-demolished Doveridge Hall grounds. St Cuthbert’s Church is one of Derbyshire’s treasures, and it features a huge old yew tree in its well-tended churchyard. The tree is estimated to be 1,400 years old, and is second only in Derbyshire in age, to the yew tree at St Helen’s Church, Darley Dale. But St Cuthbert’s has a much better spread of branches, which provide a splendid approach to the church. According to local legend, Robin Hood’s betrothal to Maid Marian took place under its branches. A Victorian suspension bridge straddles the River Dove, only a short distance from the church, with Uttoxeter a short walk away.

DRONFIELD (on the A61 midway between Chesterfield and Sheffield – SK340785)

Dronfield is a small town comprising the three communities of Dronfield, Dronfield Woodhouse and Coal Aston. In the past, the area benefited from its location on a transport route serving lead mining and grindstone making. Coal mining developed in the area from the 16th century onwards, but no trace of the industry remains today. Steel refiner Samuel Lucas established a factory here in 1811, and it is said that cannonballs were produced for the Napoleonic Wars. Today, one of the old foundries has been converted into the Forge Shopping Centre.
The Peel Monument on High Street attracts a lot of visitor attention. Built in 1854 as a tribute to Robert Peel. He was instrumental in the repeal of the ‘Corn Laws’ in 1846. The Corn Laws were regulations that restricted the import and export of grain, keeping prices high and favouring local producers. It led to people being unable to buy bread. Near the Peel Monument is the Peel Centre.

EAGLE STONE (off Bar Road at Baslow – not suitable for vehicles – on Baslow Edge)

Standing in solitary confinement on Baslow Edge is a massive boulder known as the Eagle Stone. According to legend, it took its name from the god Aigle, who, it appeared, had a habit of throwing boulders around. In the past, no local lad was considered suitable to marry until he had shown his fitness and agility by climbing to the top of the stone.

EARL STERNDALE (2 miles north of Longnor, off the B5053 – SK090671)

Earl Sterndale is a charming, unspoiled, working village situated at 1,100 ft above sea level, surrounded by some of the most picturesque countryside in the Peak District National Park. Unlike almost anywhere else in the park, apart from Thorpe Cloud, it has what many first-time visitors to the area expect to find – ‘Peaks’. The Peak District took its name from the Pecsaetans, ‘the hill dwellers’ who once lived in the area. Not, it’s mainly flat-topped hills.

The two dominant hills on the western side of the village, Parkhouse and Chrome, are conical in shape. They originate from former reef knolls, or coral reefs formed under the waters of a lagoon millions of years ago. High Wheeldon, to the southeast of Earl Sterndale, is conical but not so markedly as the other two hills. It was given to the nation as a memorial to the men of Derbyshire and Staffordshire who gave their lives in two World Wars, and it is now in the hands of the National Trust. Fox Hole Cave, on the hill, was excavated in the 1970s, revealing a range of Stone Age implements and the remains of animals hunted by the men of that period.

The former sign at the village pub in Ear Sterndale (now closed), The Quiet Woman, carried the immortal adage “Soft Words Turneth Away Wrath” below a picture of a headless woman. The story goes that a former pub landlord’s wife, “Chattering Charteris”, nagged so much that she even started ranting in her sleep. At last, her husband could stand it no more and cut off her head. The approving villagers even had a ‘whip round’ to pay for the headstone.

ECCLESBOURNE VALLEY RAILWAY (the main station is on the eastern edge of Wirksworth, the line runs to Duffield)

The railway contributed to the local economy for over 100 years, transporting stone and agricultural products. It started carrying passengers on 1 October 1867, and was used for both passengers and freight until 1989, when it closed. After that, the railway suffered from neglect, and the line became overgrown. Wirksworth Railway Station Yard also became very untidy, which detracted from the carefully restored town centre only a short distance away. A determined band of volunteers and professionals has now restored the line from Wirksworth to Duffield along which heritage trains operate. It is the longest heritage railway line in Derbyshire. In the summer, you can take a steam train ride from Wirksworth Station, up the 1 in 27 incline to Ravenstor and visit the National Stone Centre or go for a walk.

ECKINGTON (7 miles northeast of Chesterfield on the border of South Yorkshire – SK425793)

In medieval times, Eckington was a small but significant settlement, with a name of Saxon origin. It grew rapidly during the coal mining era and still retains some fine old buildings, as well as a busy market centre. The parish church of St. Peter and St. Paul dates back to 1100 and features a Norman doorway. There are numerous monuments of the Sitwell family inside, who lived at Renishaw Hall. The area around Eckington is beautiful and is extensively wooded. The woods are renowned for their vibrant spring flowers, particularly the bluebells.