MONSAL HEAD TO MUGGINTON

Monsal Head
Monsal Head

A TO Z – DERBYSHIRE AND THE PEAK DISTRICT – CHAPTER 31

MONSAL HEAD (on a minor road northwest of Ashford in the Water – SK185715)

Monsal Trail
Monsal Trail

Monsal Head looks down on the dale below, from where you get a fantastic view of the Headstone Viaduct. Yet John Ruskin, the poet and conservationist, ranted when it was built: ‘The valley is gone – and now every fool in Buxton can be in Bakewell in half an hour and every fool at Bakewell in Buxton.’ Despite the initial controversy over the building of the viaduct in Monsal Dale, it is now considered an important feature of historic and architectural interest. When the railway line closed after 100 years, and plans were mooted to demolish the viaduct, a widespread protest ensued. The answer came in 1970, with the award of a preservation order.

MONSAL TRAIL (from Coombs Road Viaduct near Bakewell to the head of Chee Dale {3 miles from Buxton})

The Monsal Trail runs along a disused railway line, now a track for walkers, cyclists, and horse riders. It runs for eight and a half miles, following the deep limestone valley of the River Wye through breathtaking countryside. The tunnels have been reopened, and it is no longer necessary to take diversions. There are several joining points.

MONYASH (about 1 mile from the A515 on the B5055 Bakewell road – SK150665)

Quaker Graveyard, Monyash
Quaker Graveyard, Monyash

Situated in limestone country at the head of beautiful Lathkill Dale is the sturdy little village of Monyash. The attractive green, together with the village pub and café, form the centre of the village, where visitors like to sit and relax. Four ancient trackways, now converted into metalled roads, radiate from the green, lined by houses and buildings of all sorts and sizes.

Formerly an important lead mining centre for the High Peak, Monyash had its own Barmote Court. It sat at the Bull’s Head at Easter and Michaelmas to settle mining disputes and to hear complaints of theft, trespass, and grievances of lead miners. Judgements were made based on custom and precedent handed down over the years.

The village was a stronghold for the Quaker movement for over 100 years. In 1668, John Gratton, the most famous of the Midland Quakers, came to live in the village, where he remained for 40 years. Apart from being imprisoned for his faith, he suffered grievously at the hands of his fellow men.

The parish church of St Leonard’s dates to the 12th century. Encircled by tall lime trees planted in the 18th century by the Reverend Robert Lomas, it is one of the prettiest in the county. Unfortunately, it is not the limes the vicar is remembered for, but the tragic end to his life. One dark and stormy night, when he was returning from Bakewell the worse for drink, he fell off his horse over a cliff into Lathkill Dale and was killed. The cliff from which he fell is now known as Parson’s Tor.

Bull's Head, Monyash
Bull's Head, Monyash
Monsal Trail with Thornbridge Hall in the background
Monsal Trail with Thornbridge Hall in the background

MONYASH – FERE MERE
Only Fere Mere, once Monyash’s primary source of drinking water, remains of the five meres that originally existed to retain water in what was otherwise a dry limestone area. Before Cow Mere was covered over, farmers would drive their livestock to drink according to an agreed-upon schedule with other farmers. Meres are round ponds, usually with concrete bases, the making of which was once an important industry in Derbyshire.

MUGGINTON (off the Weston Underwood to Hulland Ward road – SK284429)

The village may derive its name from Mugga or Mooga, a Saxon farmer who had a farm in the area. Farming is still the predominant occupation in Mugginton. All Saints’ Church is said to date to the 11th century, and the hollow yew tree in the churchyard may be from the Saxon era. The popular Cock at Mugginton was closed for over ten years but has now reopened following extensive alterations.

Fere Mere, Monyash
Fere Mere, Monyash
The Old Beeches, Mugginton
The Old Beeches, Mugginton