SUTTON-ON-THE-HILL TO SWANWICK
A TO Z – DERBYSHIRE AND THE PEAK DISTRICT – CHAPTER 47
SUTTON-ON-THE-HILL (1.5 miles northwest of Hilton, 8 miles west of Derby – SK234337)
A somewhat remote rural village, as its name suggests, is situated in a slightly elevated position. From the church, there are excellent views, particularly towards the Peak District. The remainder of Sutton is scattered around several country lanes, surrounded by good farming country. At one time, it was home to a cheese factory, but this has now been converted into houses. The Domesday Book records a mill in the village. A watermill still functioned by the brook until just before the Second World War and is now a private house.
SUTTON SCARSDALE HALL (1mile west of M1 Motorway, off the A632 Chesterfield to Bolsover road – SK442689)
Once one of Derbyshire’s finest houses, Sutton Scarsdale Hall now lies in ruins. Built in 1724-29 for the first Lord Scarsdale, the hall is thought to have been the model for the old peer in Hogarth’s ‘The Rake’s Progress’. A later owner was said to be the person on whom Sir Clifford Chatterley, in D. H. Lawrence’s novel Lady Chatterley, was modelled. It has been roofless since 1919, when its interior was dismantled and some parts exported to America. The garden remains, including a ha-ha ditch. The village also features a parish church and several attractive houses.
SWADLINCOTE (off the A511 Burton to Ashby-de-la-Zouch Road – SK289197)
In 1086, at the time of the Domesday Book, Swadlincote was just a small manor and part of Church Gresley. Today, it is the largest town in South Derbyshire with a population of over 30,000. The town comprises three separate settlements: Swadlincote, Church Gresley, and Newhall. These combine with the parishes of Woodville and Castle Gresley.
During the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, the principal industries were coal mining, brick-making, and the manufacture of clay products, including pottery. These industries have largely disappeared and have been replaced by a variety of engineering, manufacturing businesses and service industries. The loss of major industries inevitably led to a decline in the area; however, thanks to various initiatives, Swadlincote is now well on its way to recovery.
The planting of Woodlands Park has extended The National Forest right into Swadlincote. The forest is Britain’s most ambitious environmental project for over 1,000 years. It covers 200 square miles and combines new planting with existing woodland.
SWADLINCOTE – SHARPE’S POTTERY MUSEUM
The museum and visitor centre at Swadlincote tells the story of the South Derbyshire Pottery industry from the 16th to the 21st century. Ranked second only in status to that of Stoke-on-Trent for pottery manufacture. The town exported vast quantities of household pottery to the USA in the early part of the 19th century. In the mid-19th century, Sharpe’s patented the ‘box rim’, a new way of flushing the toilet. Once the new toilet flush was introduced, Swadlincote was at the forefront of manufacturing the new invention. The high aluminium content of the local clay made it especially suitable for ‘salt glazing’, giving the clay a tough, virtually indestructible finish, ideal for sewage pipes. Sewerage pipes made in the town are in use all over the world, including in the Houses of Parliament.
Sharpe’s Pottery closed in 1967, after a working life of 146 years. Six years later, a fire caused extensive damage. Fortunately, the kiln and enough of the building survived to make rescue possible. In the 1990s, it was part of a regeneration project aimed at creating a museum and visitor centre. Today, the museum exhibits cover the period from the 16th century to the present day. The latest interactive technology enables visitors to discover fascinating facts about South Derbyshire pottery, featuring video clips, old newsreels, and photographs. Undoubtedly, the whole complex is one of South Derbyshire’s gems.
SWANWICK (south of the A38 and Alfreton – SK404532)
The ancient village of Swanwick, together with Somercotes and Leabrooks to the east and Riddings to the southeast, tends to overlap because of recent industrial and housing development driven by their proximity to good road communications.
All that remains of the mining era is the mining memorabilia set at the side of the road as you enter Swanwick from the south.
The area still retains some agricultural land, several interesting buildings, as well as shops and other amenities, plus several attractive green open spaces. In the 1850s, Swanwick Hayes was constructed as the home of the Fitzherbert Wright family, and in the early 1900s, it was converted into a conference centre. During World War II, it served as a prisoner-of-war camp and witnessed one of the most daring escapes of the war. Five German prisoners, including ace fighter pilot Franz von Werra, successfully tunnelled out of the camp while the POW choir distracted the guards. The event later became a film, The One That Got Away, starring Hardy Krüger.
